Pets

Is A Pet Rabbit Right For You?

If you are considering buying or adopting a pet rabbit, you should first carefully consider the demands and rewards of these very special pets. Countless homes have been lit up by the presence of a long-eared tenant, and conscientious rabbit keepers have many years of satisfying interaction and bonding to look forward to. At the same time, each year thousands of rabbits are turned over to animal shelters, or worse, simply thrown out into the fields by owners who did not take the time to properly educate themselves on the responsibilities of having a rabbit. Here you can find the basic information needed to answer the question: Is a rabbit right for me?

Rabbits require daily and weekly care and maintenance, as well as a significant monetary investment. When cared for well, rabbits typically live between 9 and 12 years, so this is a long-term commitment. Just think: if you buy a pet rabbit for your 12-year-old, the rabbit will likely still be alive when that child moves out of the house. If you simply want a pet that will entertain a young child for a while, consider a rat or other shorter-lived creature.

Starting with the financial costs, here is a brief summary of the requirements for owning a rabbit.

Initial outlay:

  • The rabbit himself. Your best option is to adopt from an animal shelter. In addition to saving the life of the animal, you will bypass the morally dubious world of rabbit breeders and pet stores, which often show little or no competition or consideration for the welfare of animals. And if that’s not reason enough to adopt, it’s the cheapest option by far, aside from denying the price of the rabbit itself, the animal shelter should always spay or neuter the rabbit for you. This procedure generally costs $ 200 or more if performed by a private vet, while the typical cost to adopt a rabbit (already spayed / neutered) is around $ 30.
  • It has a cage for rabbits. These come in a wide range of prices based on size and many other factors, but you shouldn’t skimp on this purchase as it will likely last a long time. Even if you can comfortably house an immature rabbit in a smaller cage, remember that it will continue to grow until the age of 6 to 8 months. A typical cage costs between $ 50 and $ 100.
  • A litter tray. Rabbits are some of the easiest pets to train and the alternative to a litter tray is constant cleaning of their cage. The average price is around $ 10.
  • A bottle of water or a plate. As much as you want to save some money, don’t bother putting a plastic cereal bowl or similar substitute in the rabbit’s cage. The rabbit is almost certain to turn the bowl over, not only depriving the rabbit of water, but also soaking the bedding, which will become unsanitary. Use a small pet water bottle or heavy bowl. The typical cost is around $ 5.
  • Feeder for rabbits. Again, you need a heavy crock or (preferably) a tray feeder that attaches to the side of the cage. The price is around $ 10.
  • Rabbit brush. Regular brushing of your rabbit’s fur is important to prevent potentially lethal hairballs from forming in his gut. The price is $ 8 – $ 10.
  • Rabbit nail clippers. Unless your rabbit has a lot of time to dig and run on hard, rough surfaces, which is unlikely, you will need to trim his nails periodically. Prices range from $ 5 to over $ 15.
  • Toys. Rabbits are lively, intelligent animals that need stimulation and exercise. There is a wide variety of household items that can be turned into rabbit toys with little effort, but there are also many commercial toys available. They usually cost a couple of dollars each.
  • Total initial outlay: $ 350 or more, or $ 180 if adopted.

In addition to these start-up costs, there are various supplies and consumables that you will need to purchase on an ongoing basis.

  • Pellets. Mature rabbits should eat between 1/4 cup to 1 cup of dry pellets per day, depending on size. A 2.5 pound bag of food should last about a month or so. Prices vary, with the upper limit around $ 5 per pound, so you shouldn’t have to spend more than $ 15 a month on granules.
  • Hay. Hay is the most important element of your rabbit’s nutrition and should be freely available at all times. How much your rabbit will eat will largely depend on size, breed, individual temperament, and other factors. Hay is pretty cheap, so even if you have a hungry rabbit, you shouldn’t need to spend more than $ 15 a month or so.
  • Fresh fruits and vegetables. A small amount of fresh plant matter should be part of each rabbit’s daily diet. For mature rabbits, plan to feed at least two cups of vegetables daily, such as beet greens, dandelion greens, cabbage greens, carrot greens, and similar leafy greens. You can also include no more than 2 ounces of fruit, avoiding especially sugary fruits like grapes. Another $ 15 per month, more or less.
  • Bedding / sand. Your rabbit should have some kind of soft material to lie down on, as well as something absorbent for his litter box. There are free alternatives available, such as shredded newspaper, but bedding and commercial garbage are preferable for a variety of reasons. Approximately $ 5 per month.
  • Annual check up. Your rabbit should be taken to a veterinarian who specializes in exotic pets every year to protect against health problems that may not be immediately apparent. The price will vary greatly depending on the vet, but around $ 45 is a good ballpark figure.
  • Total cost per year: Approximately $ 480.

Starting to rethink rabbit ownership? It is important that you are prepared for these non-optional costs. Everything listed above is an absolute must for a healthy pet rabbit, and unless you can harvest your own hay or build your own cage, you won’t be able to cut any of these costs. If you don’t think you can comfortably afford four to five hundred dollars a year for care and maintenance, a rabbit may not be the pet for you.

In addition to the financial outlay, caring for the rabbits will require an investment of time. Below is a breakdown of the tasks commonly associated with rabbit ownership.

Daily tasks:

  • Change the food and water and clean the bowls. Food pellets that have not been consumed from the previous day should be discarded and replaced, and the same applies to water. Water or food that is allowed to stand and spoil or stagnate will become vectors of disease. The food bowl and water bowl / bottle should also be cleaned daily. Clean with white vinegar or mild soap and rinse well with hot water. 10 minutes or less.
  • Check the litter box. Depending on how much sand you put in the litter box at one time, you will have to change it more or less frequently. Once a week is typical, but you will want to check it daily to make sure it is not very dirty, that it does not attract flies, and that there are no tell-tale signs of obvious health problems in the rabbit’s waste, such as malformed cecotrophs. . 1 minute.
  • Remove any litter or hay that has become wet or dirty. If wet materials are allowed to degrade in the cage, they will quickly become sources of illness and discomfort for your rabbit. 1-2 minutes.
  • Most importantly, spend time with your rabbit! As much as any dog, and more than most cats, rabbits are social and communicative animals that require daily interaction for their physical and mental health.

While your rabbit should have at least a few hours a day to roam freely, you will want to spend an hour or so of that time interacting with him. Try rolling a ball or cardboard tube with it, or throwing a sisal string toy at it. Some rabbits are dedicated “catch” players! Aside from the entertainment and satisfaction that you and your rabbits will get from playtime, this is a good opportunity to observe your rabbit for signs of health problems. 1 hour or more.

Total time per day: Approximately 1 ¼ hours.

Weekly tasks:

  • Change the litter box. Remove the used sand and replace it. 1 minute.
  • Thorough cleaning of the cage. This should be done during the rabbits’ normal “play time”, when they are out of the cage. Remove all bedding, hay, litter box, etc. You can use white vinegar or diluted bleach to thoroughly clean all surfaces, especially the areas where the rabbit has urinated. Rinse well with hot water and allow to dry before replacing. 1 hour or less.
  • Boyfriend rabbit. Rabbits require two types of regular grooming: nail brushing and trimming. The importance of regularly brushing your rabbit cannot be overstated, as it will prevent the rabbit from forming hairballs in its intestine that can cause a fatal blockage. Use a pet rabbit brush or a soft, slippery brush; rabbits have extremely sensitive skin. This is a good way to promote the bond between you and your rabbit, as mutual grooming is an important social activity for rabbits in the wild.
  • Nail clipping should be done a week or two, but it will be easier if done more often. Use small pet nail clippers. Remember never to immobilize a fighting rabbit, as its fragile spines and legs can break off. For more detailed instructions, find one of the many articles available on how to trim your rabbit’s nails. 1 hour in total.

Total time per week: 1-2 hours.

These guidelines should give you a good idea of ​​how much time you will need to spend caring for your rabbit. Although you may be able to get away with cutting some corners, this is highly inadvisable. Your rabbit’s health and happiness will suffer, not to mention that doing so will nullify the point of having a rabbit. If any of these requirements seem too onerous, you may want to reconsider buying a rabbit. Otherwise, you can look forward to years of wonder and joy as you watch your furry companion grow, learn, and develop a bond with you that few other pets can match. We wish you the best on your hutch adventures!

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