Although it is almost the smallest country in South America, Uruguay obviously has a big heart when it comes to gay visitors. Bordered by Brazil to the north and Argentina to the west, Uruguay has survived competition from Buenos Aires and Rio de Janeiro to become the preferred location for gay vacationers from South America and now from around the world.
With an area of only 175 square kilometers and a national population of 3.5 million inhabitants of which almost fifty percent live in the capital city of Montevideo, beautiful sandy beaches and hills in the interior, Uruguay offers a variety of vacation activities to this new wave of tourists.
Five years ago, this month of 2003, the federal government passed a law that protected members of sexual minorities from homophobic physical and print abuse. This was followed in November 2007 with the recognition of same-sex civil unions at the national level, the first country in South America to allow same-sex unions. The age of legal consent is eighteen and homosexual acts in public are still frowned upon, but the general attitude in Uruguay is very gay-friendly.
The cities of Montevideo and Colonia plus the coastal resort of Punta del Este — Estrella de la Costa Dorada — are where most of the gay and gay-friendly businesses are located. Although the Punta del Este Riviera is little known to North Americans, it has the power to attract stars and rivals many other established gay destinations among the savvy gay jet-set looking for a place a little different from the norm.
This small country has honestly earned its nickname of Uru-Gay and the first time you visit it will allow you to understand how this happened.
The capital city, Montevideo, is rich in Spanish history from the 18th century when it was founded as a military stronghold and the Ciudad Vieja — Ciudad Vieja — offers many examples of the original buildings erected by the first settlers. This is the most modern neighborhood in the city and comes to life after dark as the entertainment center of Montevideo. Among this historic neighborhood can also be found a recent addition to the Park for Sexual Diversity and the Monument to the Persecution of Gays and Lesbians inaugurated in February 2005 in recognition of the Nazi persecution of gays and lesbians. It is located on Calle Policia Vieja, between Plaza de la Constitución and Plaza Independencia. This is the first monument of its kind in South America and only the fourth in the world after Amsterdam, New York and San Francisco. This was a major achievement that the local gay community is extremely proud to start and another demonstration of gay friendly Uru-Gays. As you would expect, here you will also find many gay and gay friendly bars, restaurants and shops that surround the park.
Throughout the Old City, along cobbled streets and between beautiful parks and squares, there are many historical sights that provide hours of walking pleasure and, of course, gastronomic delights. The Port Market is a collection of outdoor restaurants, bars and cafes offering culinary specialties and local wines. A local custom that will always please is Medio y Medio, a complimentary glass of local wine (red or white) to enjoy while perusing the menu. Of course, Uruguay is famous for La Parrilla — local grilled meats — accompanied by a wide variety of locally grown vegetable side dishes to complement your meal. You will also be pleasantly surprised at how good and inexpensive local wines turn out to be with a little tip from your waiter.
Next to the port market is Pérez Castellano pedestrian street, allowing you to enjoy the views and shops without noisy traffic and travel back in time through this ancient Spanish settlement in peace and quiet. Outside the Old City, 18 de Julio Street commemorates Uruguay’s Independence Day. It is a very long walk through the heart of Montevideo and almost all the main attractions are close to this street. It is lined with parks, squares, monuments and impressive architectural examples from the belle epoque and art deco buildings. The City of Montevideo publishes a very good map with a walking tour that will allow you to see it all in just a couple of quiet days walking and stopping to enjoy the views.
In the Plaza Independence Square in the heart of the city is the gay bar Placid Salvo and coincidentally also the Embassy of Canada. Although gay bars in Montevideo don’t open until very late at night, the maple leaf flag flies on the edge of this square 24/7! The other gay bar Cain — the oldest gay bar in the city — is located at Cerro Largo 1833 in Arenal Grande. This bar is housed in a huge heritage building and has multiple levels with three dance floors and is the most popular with locals and visitors. Although there are only two gay bars in the city, there are a multitude of gay friendly establishments to enjoy as well with a mix of straight, gay, bisexual and transgender patrons. Be prepared for interesting moments from late at night to early morning in this vibrant city.
Of course, any city in the southern hemisphere bordered by the Atlantic Ocean on one side and a large river estuary on the other side is sure to have some spectacular beaches and Montevideo is no exception. Near the city center is Playa Ramirez and a short bus or taxi ride will take you to Playa Pocitos or Playa Malvin. Pack plenty of tanning lotion as the rays here are very strong and during the winter months there is very little cloudiness and the temperature averages thirty-five degrees. However, you will find plenty of beach bars and outdoor cafes in case you need to find some shade and refreshments.
Shopping in Montevideo offers a wide variety of options and the prices are very low compared to Canadian prices. There are large chain stores, small boutiques, local craft shops, markets, and of course leather factories. Make sure your plastic is ready for a strong hit, as there will be many irresistible must-haves that you will discover as you stroll the charming streets of the city.
Finding gay accommodation in Montevideo is a challenge, but Hostal La Puerto Negra is a charming gay bed and breakfast located in a residential neighborhood within walking distance of the city center and the Old City. The rooms are large, the historic building is charming, and the prices are very reasonable. Otherwise, the options are very gay-friendly and most room rates in Montevideo are very affordable, depending on your choice of accommodation style and location.
Outside of Montevideo, the small town of Colonia is only two and a half hours away by bus and will provide a complete change of pace from the big city. Here you will find Portuguese-style architecture and cobblestone streets reminiscent of Lisbon, Portugal. The winding streets and colorful houses are arranged in a different pattern than most Spanish colonial cities, and they are a pleasure to explore. The old town, Barrio Historica, on a small peninsula jutting into the river, was named a World Heritage Site in 1995. The history of the city dates back to 1745 and you can see a historic drawbridge built at that time, the El Faro lighthouse built in 1857, or visit the Sunday market in the Plaza Mayor. A day or two in Colonia is a perfect way to see another side of Uruguay’s unique appeal and history. The city produces a wide variety of local textiles and has a free trade zone that beats already low prices.
Traveling northeast for about 140 kilometers from Montevideo, you will reach the exclusive resort town of Punte del Este on the Atlantic coast. This small coastal city of just over ten thousand inhabitants increases to a seasonal population of around one million people during the months of December to February. The beautiful beaches, casinos, and entertainment attract many regular visitors and newcomers alike, making this the South American Riviera not to be missed. The gay community is growing and now includes hotels, bars, restaurants, and shops for a complete gay vacation experience. The beaches here offer everything from sailing with the Atlantic breeze on the calm waters to relaxing and tanning or surfing in the waves. No trip to Uruguay is complete without a visit to Punta del Este and fun Monte Carlo style!
For a small country, you will be amazed at how much Uru-Gay has to offer and the unspoiled and undiscovered gay vacation park that you have found.
There is also a very experienced GLBT travel company that specializes in gay vacations in Uruguay but based in the United States and can be found at gay-uruguay.com providing assistance with a vacation anywhere in this small country with the great gay welcome mat. They can organize special accommodations, excursions and activities to suit your personal idea of the perfect gay vacation.
This winter, enjoy a unique vacation in the southern hemisphere and discover why everyone is talking about one of the smallest countries in South America with the biggest heart and welcoming gay vacationers.
