Coloring – The Basics

Please take the time to make a proper color consultation. Show your client your tone chart. Check what your color level is today and what level you want it to be. Decide the desired shade with her.

Choose the proper strength of developer. Use 20 vol developer. if the desired shade involves 1 or 2 levels of lightening, 30 vol. for lightening from 2 to 3 levels and developer of 40 vol. for rinsing of 3 levels and more.

Decide if prelightening is necessary. If your client wishes to lift more than 3 levels, they will need to use a lightening powder or deep lift colors.

Get your mixing ratios right. Check the instructions for the brand of hair color you are using. The most common mix is ​​1 part color to 1 part developer. High Lift colors sometimes require 1 part color to 2 parts developer. Bleach is usually 1 part color to 1 part developer, but you need to make sure the mixture is runny enough that it doesn’t dry out during processing.

Respect the development time. Once again, check the instructions for the brand of hair color you are using. For bleaching, you will need to keep an eye on the hair until it has been lightened to the desired level.

Full Head Coloring – Technical Application

Always apply color to dry, unwashed hair.
For gray coverage, you must mix the desired color shade with the corresponding base shade. For example, if your customer wants 6G, you will need to mix 6G with 6.

To cover dark bases with very resistant gray hair (for example, Asian or African-American hair) it is recommended to use the Extra Coverage Series (“NN”) that many color brands sell today.

Section the hair into 4 large sections and then tie it up with section clips.

Open one of these sections. Divide this section into smaller sections with your fingers and apply color.

Stay about 1 inch away from the scalp to start. It works quite quickly and covers all the midsections and ends.

Now go back to the scalp area. This time you can apply the color up to 1/8 inch from the scalp, BUT NO CLOSER. This area is the heat band and it processes faster and more due to the heat of the scalp.

After the entire application process is complete, repeat one more time with your fingers (with gloves of course). This will help you get a brighter result.

Develop for about 30 minutes. (A little more if you need to lighten more than 3 levels or cover a lot of gray).

Add a touch of warm water and rub. This process is known as emulsification and will give you a better and more vibrant color result.

Rinse with a mild shampoo and apply conditioner if necessary.